Washington State of Mind

I can say that Washington, Conn., is the only place I've ever been attacked by a northern goshawk (though that's not what this blog is about, so hang in for a bit before being persuaded of the town's charms).

Goshawks are accipiters, or hawks built for bursts of speed and agility as they navigate dense forests; they're also among the larger hawks in Connecticut, and are described as powerful hunters. It was eight years ago, around this time of year or maybe in early June that I had my encounter. Of course I knew these hawks were nesting in the Hidden Valley Preserve of the Steep Rock Association (http://steeprockassoc.org/). Signs were posted warning those walking in the lush, beautiful woods bisected by the Shepaug River not to use a trail that came close to a nesting area---and that, when nesting, the hawks would attack.

I heeded the warnings, but ended up "outsmarting" them by taking a series of other trails that brought me near the nesting grounds, a fact that didn't sink in as I followed this self-choreographed route more than once without incident. Then, one Friday afternoon, I entered the preserve from a different parking area on the other side of the river, at a point that contained no warning signs. I followed a trail alongside the river, and eventually crossed a footbridge to the other side and started up a series of switchbacks to pick up the outer loop trail I had been tracing.

Only a few hundred feet down the trail at the top of the hill I was startled into crisis mode first by a loud piercing cry and then the site of a very large dark object coming toward me. I turned around, began to run and, out of pure instinct, dove under the fence and rolled down the hill when I came to the hairpin turn of the first switchback; I figured the hawk was close and that slowing down to make the turn would result in talons piercing my scalp.

With no time to look back for the goshawk, I repeated the run, dive and roll maneuver at each switchback all the way down the hill. Finally, back down on the trail just above the footbridge, I turned to look and saw nothing. I thought I may have gotten far enough away from the nest, but immediately heard the cry and saw the hawk coming for me again. This time, I threw myself down the last hill between me and the river, ran along the rocks and hid underneath the footbridge for what seemed like an eternity. Eventually, I climbed up onto the bridge and made haste back the way I had come and out of the preserve.

Despite my run-in, which serves as an unusual nature lover's badge of honor, given that I successfully escaped, the presence of goshawks in the landmark preserves of Steep Rock is a good thing. Though it means taking care in communing with nature during nesting season, it also means that the town is still so unspoiled and wild that one of the least seen and most private hawks lives here.

It's symbolic, really, of Washington's rarefied demographics. The humans who live here are, almost without exception, highly successful, affluent, sophisticated, discerning and, often, tied meaningfully to New York City. Houses are grand, and parties and benefits lavish.

In fact, the very existence of the natural riches preserved by Steep Rock come thanks to the architect Ehrick Rossiter, who designed the signature shingle-style manses of Washington, and whose reverence for the environment that helped gild his career prompted him to establish the preserve that now forms the core of Steep Rock's holdings.

Another accomplishment for Rossiter was designing a cultural gem in town, the Gunn Memorial Library. It's the pinnacle of small-town Connecticut libraries, and every year, as spring blossoms into the summer, the library holds a unique fund-raiser called Library Luminaries.

Here's a piece we published recently in The Litchfield County Times on the upcoming event: The 2011 Library Luminaries event to raise funds for the Gunn Memorial Library and Museum is taking a slightly different approach this year, its 16th. Traditionalists shouldn’t worry, though, as the spirit and structure of the event remains intact.

Fourteen separate dinner parties will each feature at least one "luminary," or a distinguished person of note, and each party will be hosted by an area resident. That much is unchanged.
But during the event’s past decade and a half, a flat donation allowed guests to choose which dinner to attend, in addition to alternatives in case of a sell-out, with an adjunct pre-dinner cocktail party at library. The package fee this year begins at $150. But the 2011 Library Luminaries Committee will also open up the cocktail party to those who may not attend, and do so for a contribution of $50.
"In prior years, people had to [sign up for] the dinner," said co-chair Bill Fore. "But this year you do not need to go the dinner, you can just go to the cocktail party."
The annual event is one of the primary fund-raisers for the town’s library and historical museum, which largely depends upon private contributions rather than taxpayer dollars. According to a release, recent Connecticut statistics reveal that the Gunn Memorial Library boasts double the number of visits per capita of libaries in towns of its size, and performs at the top of every measure of libraries statewide.
Just a few of the guest luminaries this year include: designer Robert Couturier and historical architect Jeffrey Morgan, hosted by Philippa Feigen Malkin and Jonathan Malkin; chef Wayne Nish, hosted by Susan and Lawrence Kessler; "Sex and the City" author Candace Bushnell, hosted by realtor Carolyn Klemm; author and radio host Ann Leary, hosted by Christina and Peter Klemm; and author and memoirist Dani Shapiro, hosted by Linda and Arthur Carter, the founder of The Litchfield County Times who is now a sculptor.
And in another departure from previous years, singer-songwriter Christine Ohlman and Rebel Montez will perform a concert, hosted by Susan Bishop-Wrabel and Gene Wrabel, Cynthia Oneglia and Dan Whalen, Susan and Craig Schoon, Chris and Marlene Smith, along with Mr. Fore and Joe Loose. Ms. Ohlman, best known from the Saturday Night Live Band, will conduct her show at the Washington Club Hall adjacent to the library.
"We’ve never had a luminary dinner that was also a concert," said Mr. Fore. "If your heart is beating, your hips will be shaking."
The event is scheduled for Saturday, June 4. For information on how to partake, visit the library’s Web site at www.gunnlibrary.org or call 860-868-7586.


If a library's fund-raiser, however lofty, doesn't hold appeal, seeking out and discovering Washington certainly is in order. In addition to connecting with Steep Rock's preserves, zero in on Washington Depot to get acclimated. Clustered within a small area are plenty of shops worth discovering, including the landmark Hickory Stick Bookshop (http://www.hickorystickbookshop.com/).

The Hickory Stick Bookshop.

There's also good places to eat, including the G.W. Tavern (http://www.hickorystickbookshop.com/) and the upscale Mayflower Inn & Spa (http://www.mayflowerinn.com/)

One of the central spots in town, only established in recent years, is Marty's Cafe, a stylish coffee shop with yummy baked goods and rotating art exhibits. (http://www.seeyouatmartys.com/)

Marty's Cafe

Marty's is on one end of a small plaza that has another (locally) legendary food establishment on the far end, across the parking lot. The Pantry is a popular lunch-spot, and even more popular for its take-out delicacies, sandwiches, baked goods and more. (860-868-0258)

Once fueled up, visitors can't miss the Washington Art Association at the rear of the plaza that's home to town hall. See the Web site at http://www.washingtonart.org/.

To learn more about Washington Depot, see the Web site of the Washington Business Association (http://www.washingtonbusinessassociation.org/), which, in fact, is holding a community day for the villages of Washington on Saturday, May 28.

Beyond Washington Depot is New Preston village, a rich little stop for visitors, Marbledale and more. Find this town and fall in love---just watch out for the goshawks.

Faith in the Local Culinary Economy

Note: The following is an essay I wrote for a magazine called Epicurean Delights, which is being published May 27 by The Litchfield County Times (www.countytimes.com). It's meant to highlight the culinary gems in Greater Litchfield County, Conn., and all the experiences described below are worth seeking out. If proof is needed, just take a look at this sea bass entree at one of the hottest restaurants in the region, Chef Joel Viehland's Community table in Washington, Conn.

One of the best series on National Public Radio in recent years was the revival of “This I Believe,” based on the 1950s radio program hosted by the legendary Edward R. Murrow that featured ordinary Americans sharing the core values and personal philosophies that guide their daily lives.

With a bit of imagination, the approach can be applied to the dining scene in the region, interpreting the things one believes in through the prism of experiences that have been treasured, and desires awaiting to be fulfilled or satisfied again.

So, without further introduction, here’s a culinary laundry list of things I believe in, with the caveat that there are too many to mention and the lack of inclusion here does not signify any implicit judgment.

• Sitting at the sidewalk café of the West Street Grill in Litchfield on a warm summer evening with my beautiful wife, enjoying the lighter fare of chef Jimmy Cosgriff and a fine white Burgundy (http://www.weststreetgrill.com/; 860-567-3885).

• Trying all the new menu items at chef Carole Peck’s Good News Café in Woodbury—and knowing I will be wowed even by items I don’t usually order—while sitting not in the main dining room but in a snug booth in the bar area (http://www.good-news-café.com/; 203-266-4663).

• Ordering the amazing antipasto and an entrée with a Moroccan influence by chef Riad Aaamar at the gorgeous, graceful Oliva Café in New Preston (http://olivacafe.com/; 860-868-1787).

• Taking the kids for wood-fire pizza and enjoying the warm hospitality of Julio and Maria Duque at Julio’s in Southbury (http://www.julioswoodfiredpizzagrill.com/; 203-264-7878).

• Finding the time and means to become a regular at Winvian in Morris, in order to enjoy the amazing seed-to-table cuisine of chef Chris Eddy (http://www.winvian.com/; 860-567-9600).

• Hoping for cold weather, and then snagging a fireside table in the Tap Room at the Mayflower Inn & Spa in Washington—and then ordering chef Justin Ermini’s signature burger (http://www.mayflowerinn.com/; 860-868-9466).

• Finally trying an Italian restaurant with a legendary reputation, Roma in Watertown (860-274-2558).

• While in Watertown, picking up homemade ravioli with lobster, and sauce and Arthur Avenue bread, from the Pasta Gallery and treating myself at home (860-945-0223).

• Finding a reason to stop at Belgique Patisserie & Chocolatier in Kent every day it’s open, for everything from croissants and Madeleines to pair with coffee and chocolates and desserts to give as gifts (860-927-3681).

• Grabbing a sandwich at Panini Café in Kent and enjoying in the courtyard of the gorgeous Kent Village Barns shopping haven (860-927-5083).

• Having dinner more often at the ultra-welcoming Doc’s Trattoria in Kent (http://www.docstrattoria.com/; 860-927-1711).

• Enjoying once again the Old World-feeling charms of the Fife n’ Drum restaurant in Kent, with the hope of catching founder Dolph Traymon at the piano (http://www.fifendrum.com/; 860-927-3509).

• Frequenting the fresh, contemporary Bank Street Tavern in New Milford and enjoying a glass of wine in one of the upstairs club chairs before settling in for a filling dinner (860-799-7991).

• Finally having dinner (as opposed to brunch and appetizers at events) at The Woodward House in Bethlehem (http://www.thewoodwardhouse.com/; 203-266-6902).

• Discovering a favorite among area chefs interviewed for a story in this magazine, the Yokohama Japanese Restaurant in New Milford (860-355-0556).

• Trying a Greyledge Farm hot dog, and the Roxbury establishment’s fine cuts of beef. For a highly successful bunch, the Fitzgeralds couldn’t be nicer—or more dedicated to the farm, which apparently comes through in the quality of the products (http://www.greyledgefarm.com/; 860-350-3203).

• Seeking out the Landing Zone Grill in Harwinton and sampling some of its cult-following fare (860-485-2733).

• Do the dinner-and-a-movie classic by pairing the authentic offerings of Wood’s Pit BBQ (http://www.woodspitbbq.com/; 860-567-9869) with a show at the adjacent Bantam Cinema in the Bantam section of Litchfield (http://www.bantamcinema.com/; 860-567-0006).

• Digging deeper into the Italian fare at Matteo’s in Watertown or New Milford (http://www.matteorestaurantandbakery.com/; 860-274-9800 or 860-799-7371).

• Enjoying dinner and a nice bottle of wine once again at the charming John’s Café in Woodbury (http://www.johnscafe.com/; 203-263-0188).

• Pairing dinner and a show—at the Warner Theatre in Torrington (http://www.warnertheatre.com/; 860-489-7180) and the adjacent Backstage restaurant (http://www.backstageeatdrinklive.com/; 860-489-8900).

• Working my way through the pub fare menu at The White Horse country pub in the Marbledale section of Washington, while experimenting what will pair better with a fine ale or a fine wine (http://www.whitehorsecountrypub.com/; 860-868-1496).

• Raiding the bakery case at The Pantry in Washington Depot, while also ordering sandwiches for lunch and take-home entrees (860-868-0258).

• Sitting outside on the spacious patio at Hopkins Inn in New Preston on a summer evening and ordering the newest and freshest items the chefs have been adding to the menu and the landmark establishment (http://www.thehopkinsinn.com// 860-868-7295).

• Stopping daily at Bantam Bread for “semolina with seeds” and everything else Niles Golovin bakes (860-567-2737).

• Trying the wonderful-sounding, and very affordable, special offers at The Rooster Tail restaurant and inn in Warren (http://www.roostertailinn.com/; 860-868-3100).

• Getting a chance to bring the family for pizza at Da Capo in Litchfield (www.dacaporestaurant.com; 860-567-482-6246).

• After enjoying the coffee and pastries at its bakery appendage, finally trying chef Keith “Red” Lanphear’s dinner cuisine at @ the Corner in Litchfield (http://www.atthecorner.com/; 860-567-8882).

• Getting in the French spirit once again at Pastorale Bistro & Bar in Salisbury (http://www.pastoralebistro.com/; 860-435-1011).

• Having dinner and then attending a concert at Infinity Music Hall & Bistro in Norfolk (http://www.infinityhall.com/; 860-542-5531).

• Tweaking driving routes to stop more often for coffee and a muffin at Marty’s Café in Washington (http://www.seeyouatmartys.com/; 860-868-1700).

• Stopping frequently at the Flour Garden Bakery in Woodbury for almost anything in the display case (203-263-7355).

• Trying more of the specialty sandwiches—can’t seem to stop ordering bacon, egg and cheese on a roll—at The Ripe Tomato Deli in Morris (or Litchfield). No nicer people than Warren and Hilary. (860-567-1199).

All of these things I’ve either done or plan to do as soon as I can.